Serving Greater Scranton

Roof Leak Repair

Roof leak repair that traces water from the stain to its real entry point, then replaces the flashing, boot or shingles that failed.

Scranton Quality Roofing handles roof leak repair in Scranton, PA, serving surrounding cities including Dunmore, Moosic, Old Forge, Throop and Dickson City. For more than 20 years we have tracked down leaks in older Lackawanna Valley houses, from slate roofs over prewar homes to flat roofs on rear additions, and fixed them at the source.

The place water drips onto your ceiling is rarely where it enters the roof. Water can run along a rafter, the top of a ceiling joist or the underside of the decking for several feet before it finds a way down. That is why every leak call we take includes time in the attic as well as on the roof, so we trace the water to the spot where it actually gets in before we price the repair.

Once we find the source, we replace the part that failed instead of covering it with roof cement. And if the leak turns out to be plumbing, a vent fan or condensation, we tell you that too, so you are not paying for roof work that will not stop the water.

Finding the Source of a Roof Leak

A new pipe boot being lapped into the shingle courses to stop a leak on a frame house in Scranton.

Tracing Water From the Ceiling Into the Attic

We start below the stain and work upward. In the attic we look for darkened sheathing, water trails on rafters, wet insulation and rusty nail tips, then follow the trail uphill to its highest point. That point is usually within a few feet of where the water passes through the roof.

A flashlight, a moisture meter and photos from both sides of the decking let us show you the path. When the attic is finished or inaccessible, we rely more on the roof surface and the timing of the leak.

Roof Leak, Plumbing Leak or Condensation?

Not every wet ceiling is a roof problem. A leak that shows up on dry days usually means plumbing, an air conditioning condensate line or a bathroom fan blowing moist air into the attic. Frost that forms on the underside of the decking in cold weather and melts on a sunny day can drip like a leak.

We check the timing, the location and the attic conditions before recommending any roof work. If the cause is ventilation or a fan duct, we explain what needs to change so the problem does not come back.

Reading the Weather Pattern

When a leak appears tells us a lot. Leaks only during wind-driven rain often come from flashing or siding joints on the windward side. Leaks during snowmelt point to ice dams at the eaves. Leaks in every rain usually mean a failed pipe boot, open seam or missing shingle.

We ask you about the timing before we climb the ladder, because it narrows down where we look first. A note of the date and the wind direction during the last leak is often the most useful clue we get.

Common Roof Leak Sources and Their Repairs

Chimney Flashing Leaks

Chimneys are the most common leak point on older houses. Step flashing rusts, counter flashing pulls out of the mortar joints and layers of tar crack. We rebuild the flashing with new step flashing woven into the shingles and counter flashing cut into a reglet in the brick.

Wide chimneys without a cricket catch water and debris on the uphill side. Adding a cricket, or saddle, splits the flow around the chimney and stops the water from pooling against the brick.

Pipe Boots and Roof Vents

The rubber collar on a plumbing vent boot dries out and splits after years of sun. Water then runs straight down the pipe into the house. We replace failed boots with new rubber or lead flashing boots and reseat any roof vents whose flanges have lifted.

This is one of the simplest leak repairs we make, and one of the most common. Catching a cracked boot early keeps a small repair from turning into a stained ceiling and wet insulation.

Valleys and Roof-to-Wall Joints

Valleys carry more water than any other part of the roof, and a worn or poorly cut valley leaks under heavy rain. We repair or rebuild valleys with ice barrier underneath and properly cut shingles or metal lining.

Where a roof meets a sidewall or dormer, missing step flashing or a missing kick-out flashing sends water behind the siding. We install kick-out flashing to turn water into the gutter and replace step flashing along the wall.

Skylight Leaks

Skylight leaks usually come from the flashing around the curb rather than the glass. We re-flash curbs with step flashing on the sides, a head flashing at the top and an apron at the bottom. When the skylight unit itself has failed, we tell you and discuss replacing or removing it.

Condensation on the inside of a skylight can also run down the well and look like a roof leak. If the glass fogs on cold mornings and the flashing is dry, the fix is airflow and humidity in the room, not more roofing.

Seasonal Leaks in Northeastern Pennsylvania

Ice Dam Leaks Along the Eaves

Scranton averages about 45 inches of snow a year, and older homes with thin insulation and poor ventilation lose enough heat to melt snow on the upper roof. That water refreezes at the cold eaves, builds a ridge of ice and backs up under the shingles.

We stop the active leak, then look at the cause. Long-term fixes include a self-adhering ice barrier at the eaves, better attic insulation and balanced ventilation with soffit intake and a ridge vent.

Wind-Driven Rain and Blown-Off Shingles

Strong wind lifts shingles whose seal strips have aged, exposing nail lines and letting rain blow underneath. We replace missing shingles, reseal lifted tabs and inspect nearby flashing. If many shingles have let go, we discuss whether a higher wind-rated shingle makes sense.

After a windstorm, we photograph every damaged area and write it up for your own insurance claim. If you want us there, we will meet the adjuster on site to show what we found, while the claim itself stays between you and your insurer.

Gutter Backups and Fascia Leaks

Clogged or undersized gutters overflow behind the fascia and soak the roof edge. We clear the cause, add drip edge where it is missing and resize or rehang gutters so water flows to the downspouts. Rotted fascia and decking at the edge are replaced as part of the repair.

Flat Roof and Commercial Leak Repair

Leaks on Additions, Porches and Garages

Low-slope roofs leak at seams, at blisters and where water ponds. We repair modified bitumen, EPDM and TPO with compatible materials and pay close attention to the joint where the low roof meets the house wall, which is the most common leak point on rear additions.

Many of these small roofs were originally covered with shingles or roll roofing at a pitch too low for either. Patching them buys time, but when the same roof keeps leaking, we explain why a membrane rated for low-slope use is the lasting fix.

Commercial Roof Leaks

On commercial buildings we trace leaks to open seams, drains that have pulled away from the membrane and flashing around rooftop HVAC curbs. Water can travel far under a membrane before it appears inside, so we probe for wet insulation and map the affected area before repairing it.

When a leak is over inventory, equipment or occupied space, we set up a temporary fix first and plan the permanent repair around the business. The owner gets photos of the source and the repair for building records.

Our Step-by-Step Roof Leak Repair Process

Step 1: Stop the Water

If water is actively coming in, we start with a temporary cover to protect the interior while we diagnose the problem. Keep the receipt for your records.

Step 2: Trace the Leak

We follow the water from the stain through the attic to the roof and photograph each step. You see the evidence before you approve the repair.

Step 3: Repair the Failed Part

The failed flashing, boot, shingle or seam is replaced with proper materials, not sealant. Nearby flashing and shingles are checked while we are there.

Step 4: Check After the Next Storm

We ask you to check the attic after the next heavy rain, and we come back if anything changes. A dry attic after a hard storm is the real proof.

  • 20+ Years Roofing
  • Free Written Estimates
  • Repair Before Replace

Good to know

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my roof only leak in certain storms?

Leaks that appear only with wind from one direction usually come from flashing or siding joints that wind-driven rain can reach. Leaks only during snowmelt point to ice dams at the eaves. Telling us when the leak appears helps narrow down where to look in the attic.

My ceiling is wet but it has not rained. Is it the roof?

Probably not. Water on dry days usually comes from plumbing, an air conditioner condensate line or a bathroom fan venting moist air into the attic. Frost melting off cold roof nails on a sunny winter day can also drip. We check for those before blaming the roof.

What should I do while I wait for the repair?

Move furniture and electronics away from the drip, set out a bucket and, if the ceiling is bulging with water, poke a small hole at the low point to let it drain into the bucket. Take photos for your records. Do not climb onto a wet roof yourself.

Can you stop a leak in the middle of winter?

Yes. Many winter leaks come from ice dams or flashing, and we can make temporary and permanent repairs in cold weather. Some sealants and shingle strips bond poorly in the cold, so a few repairs get a temporary fix first and a final seal once temperatures allow.

Will my insurance cover a roof leak?

Homeowners policies usually cover sudden damage, such as a storm tearing off shingles, but often exclude leaks caused by wear and lack of maintenance. Your policy wording decides. We document the cause with photos so you have evidence for your own claim.

How do I know the leak is really fixed?

We show you photos of the failed part and the repair. The real test is the next heavy rain, so check the attic and the ceiling after the following storm. If the stain grows, call us back and we will look again.

Should I repaint the ceiling stain right away?

Wait until the repair has been through a few storms and the drywall has dried completely. Paint over a damp stain will bubble and peel. A stain-blocking primer stops the brown ring from bleeding through the new paint.

Ready to Get Started?

Request a free quote today and we'll get back to you fast.